April 02, 2024

New Strategies in Acne Care

Acne is a pervasive skin condition globally, most commonly appearing on the face, neck, chest, and upper back, where sebaceous follicles predominate. Spots and cysts, pigment changes, and scarring are all common symptoms of acne. 

 Estimates indicate acne affects 80% of teenagers [1], and according to the American Dermatology Association, some 50 million people in the U.S. will suffer from it in 2022. The global treatment market size is projected to grow from $11.09 billion in 2023 to $15.70 billion by 2030, driven by a combination of the increasing range of products to address the condition and broader consumer awareness. [2]

 Research and discoveries are opening new options for acne patients:

"We know that the causes of acne are complicated, with a mix of biological factors such as genetics and hormones, and environmental factors. Understanding the genetics of the condition will help us to disentangle some of these causes and find the best way to treat the condition. This is a really promising area for further study and opens up a lot of avenues for research.”  

Professor Michael Simpson, Head of the Genomic Medicine Group at King's College London.

The term ‘microbiome’ refers to microorganisms (bacteria, viruses, fungi, and genes and metabolites) and their environment. The impact of the microbiome on the immune system and its capacity for homeostasis is becoming increasingly well understood, along with its role in a plethora of skin-related diseases. [3]

We have learned, for instance, that the interactions between the bacteria involved in acne extend beyond the skin itself. Recently, a “new main actor in acne development has been uncovered: the microbiome and its interactions with the innate immune system.” This skin-to-gut collaborative approach to homeostasis is another remarkable example of scientific progress that can lead to new treatment options. [4]

For example, research has found that the consumption of dairy products, refined carbohydrates, chocolate, and saturated fats contributes to the development of acne through the activation of metabolic signals. [5] Moreover, the high ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids in Western diets may also be implicated. [6]

The understanding of this connection has opened the door for more research on how the skin and gut microbiome influence inflammatory skin diseases such as acne.

Dermatologists also champion another treatment breakthrough – a shift to “a gentler – and more effective – approach.” The new recommendation is to “forget drying out your skin and smothering it with products, which typically leads to inflammation and more breakouts.” [7] Instead, acne skincare needs to focus on restoring the skin barrier and microbiome. “Intensive washing damages the skin barrier and leads to loss of AMPs and results in impaired innate immunity.” [8]

Today's recommended practice is to use fewer products more strategically. Use only one “treatment product” in your morning and evening care routines. Then, contrary to conventional thought, you need to moisturize. “You can actually improve acne and prevent breakouts just by moisturizing alone, even if you don't do anything else," says Dr. Shari Marchbein, M.D., a New York City dermatologist. [9]

As in many other areas of health, advances in our understanding of acne will likely lead to individualized treatment plans. At Goodier, our R&D/Innovations teams are working to formulate products that bring the latest science to market. The progress we will make in the treatment of acne in the coming years will be a game changer for millions who suffer from the psychological and emotional pains of this condition.



 [1] ScienceDaily, Discovery of 29 new acne risk genes provides hope for new treatments, Feb 22

 [2]  Fortune Business Insights, Acne Treatment Market Size, July 2023

 [3] Fitz-Gibbon S, Tomida S, Chiu BH, Nguyen L, Du C, Liu M, et al. Propionibacterium acnes strain populations in the human skin microbiome associated with acne. J Invest Dermatol. 2013;133(9):2152–60.

 [4] American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, The Skin Microbiome: A New Actor in Inflammatory Acne, Sep 2020

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